OWNER'S MANUAL

We recommend you pay attention to how your Water Master unfolds when you first receive it as it will help when folding it up for the first time. Unfold your Water Master and flip it over so the top is facing up.

Now that you have unfolded your new Water Master, it’s time to inflate it. First, close the valve by putting your fingertip on the yellow button and turning it either direction until it pops up. Insert the valve adapter on the foot pump hose into the rear valve and turn it clockwise until it locks in. Depress the bellow until the rear chamber is fully inflated. Now do the same with the front chamber. Inflation should only take eight to ten minutes using the foot pump. We recommend you inflate the raft to 2.5-3.0 PSI or until it feels very tight. The foot pump that comes with the package will top out at approximately 2.7 PSI. We offer a pressure gauge and high speed inflators if you want to monitor your pressure or speed up inflation time considerably. Remove the hose and be sure to replace the valve caps at this time. If air comes out of the valve when you remove the hose it is not closed. The valve cap can be used as a backup in case of valve failure.

The outside temperature will affect the pressure of the raft and should be compensated for accordingly. On very hot days you may have to let a little air out whereas on cold days you may have to add a little. A pressure gauge takes the guessing out of this process. Always bring a pump and patch kit when you are on the water.

Remove (depending on the model) the seat, oars, foot strap, frame, straps, and other accessories before deflating and folding your Water Master raft. Also make sure that you put the oar lock caps back when folding the Kodiak or Grizzly. Take out the valve cap then push down on the yellow button and turn either direction until it locks in the down position. Do this with both valves. You may either wait for it to completely deflate, use the foot pump, or simply kneel down on it and press the air out. The valves must be left open when folding your Water Master.

Stick the Velcro on the soft seat to the Velcro on the rigid seat platform in the raft. You may attach this as far forward or backward as you would like to allow for less or more leg room. Next clip the narrower straps to the D-rings forward of the portage handles on either side. The first time you set up your Water Master you will have to adjust these straps to gain the proper support. Do this by loosening or tightening the narrow straps while sitting in the seat. Then clip in the wider straps to the D-rings behind you on top of the tube and tighten to give the seat shape as well as prevent it from falling down when you stand up to wade. Remember you can move this seat forward and back and adjust the straps to accommodate a different user.

Assemble the oar blades and handles by sliding the two halves together until the button pops out and locks them together. If you have the Sawyer Stealth oars you will be provided with a fish tight tool which you will use to screw the locking oar screw in and out to assemble. Unscrew the oar lock cap from the oar lock post and insert the oar lock bolt through the hole in the oar. There is no right or left oar as they work on either side. When using the Sawyer Stealth oars you will need to decide which direction you want the cup of the blade oriented. For river use we recommend the logo is facing down so that you get the most power while back rowing. If you are in a lake and rowing forward most of the day you can attach the oars with the logos facing up. Replace the oar lock cap. Always remember to replace this oar lock cap before folding your Water Master.

The best way to learn to fold your Water Master is to watch our video. It only takes a minute and will save you a lot of frustration trying to get it back in the bag. One crucial thing to watch out for is where the oar locks are in the folding process. You will want to avoid folding them in half in the process. Over time this could cause the oar lock pads to start delaminating from the raft. In the video you will see how to place that specific fold in front of the oar locks so they are flat when rolled over avoiding this issue.

Water Masters are built tough with extremely high quality PVC that does not crease and crack like cheaper materials. They can be stored fully inflated, partially inflated, or folded and put in the backpack. We recommend folding it and storing it in the backpack as it takes up much less space and is protected more in the bag. Make sure it is dry before storing it in the bag as it will not smell pleasant when you open it later. Do not store it outside in the elements as UV can damage anything over time even with UV protection. Store in areas that are temperature controlled. Do not store them where temperatures can reach over 100 degrees for long periods of time such as uninsulated sheds, barns, and especially your car. Over time this can degrade the glues used on some of the parts and seam tape. Do not store them where mice and rats can get to them. It is our number one repair.

We recommend you keep your Water Master clean and dry and out of the elements when not in use. This includes away from mice as it is the number one Water Master repair request. While our PVC does have a built in UV protectant it is still a good idea to treat it with 303 UV Protectant a couple of times a year depending on how much you use it. Make sure to not only wipe the entire raft down with 303 UV protectant but to also spray down any webbing on the raft and the soft seat. This will prevent the nylon webbing from dry rotting and keeps your seat from fading.

First make sure the area you are gluing to is clean and dry. You can use MEK or MEK substitute (found in your local hardware store) to prep the area you are gluing. Next, trace the patch with a wax pencil, fine tip pen, or washable marker. Brush a thin layer of glue on the patch and the on boat and let dry completely. Add a second layer of glue and allow five to ten minutes for the glue to become tacky but not dry completely. Stick the top of the patch to the boat and roll down removing all the air bubbles. Allow at least twenty minutes for set up. The glue is heat activated so if part of the patch does not roll down or if it dries too quickly you can use a blow dryer or heat gun to warm the area and roll it down. If you're patching a hole in the boat allow for a bit more set up time if possible and patch the boat deflated. For D-Ring patches and other external parts glue and attach them with the boat fully inflated.

If you have any questions about anything, always feel free to give us a call directly and we can walk you through it.

(800) 239-RAFT (406) 777-5970